Some months have passed since our last newsletter and, whilst we haven’t covered a lot of sea miles, we have fulfilled our goal to cruise the northern Caribbean islands slowly, taking time to really get to know them, rather than ‘pass through’ as we did in dear old Penmar, on our previous voyage to these parts.

Guadeloupe certainly lived up to our expectations and our travels on Basse Terre, with its mountainous landscape and tropical forest, we’ll always remember. After all, being lost and ankle deep in mud in a tropical rainforest is pretty unforgettable; equally so, swimming in a blue pool fed by waterfalls deep in the rainforest and having this all to oneself.

The islands are all interesting in their own way, with unique colonial histories, be it British, French, Dutch, Danish or Spanish. Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua’s English Harbour is a favourite of ours; lunch and cold drinks in the old Copper & Lumber Store looking over the bay, where Spirit lay at anchor … just perfect!

We loved the little Dutch island of Statia (Sint Eustatius) and its amazing history as a major slave centre for the region, as well as its role in the late 18th Century, supplying vital goods to the new ‘independents’ in America, much against the wishes of our King! Being the first country to officially recognise the ‘United States’ by saluting a merchant vessel flying the Stars and Stripes didn’t go down well either; the unfortunate Governor was sent home in disgrace after the British complained and Admiral Rodney retaliated by invading the island and taking possession of the harbour and everything in it. Quite right, too!

The Virgin Islands are a superb cruising ground in their own right, although the British Virgin Islands are becoming rather crowded with charter yachts (who on earth would wish to escape a UK winter to sail out here?) There are many wonderful anchorages and great snorkelling on the coral reefs. Niki had a close encounter with a stingray and a large barracuda and small shark paid the skipper an unexpected visit when cleaning the barnacles off Spirit’s bottom one morning! Turtles are much in evidence and they do not seem the least bit put out when joined by the crew of Spirit for an afternoon swim.

St. John, one of the US Virgin Islands, has an extensive Marine Park covering most of the indented coastline and provides mooring buoys in sensitive areas (to avoid anchors damaging the coral). Life here is very hedonistic; you don’t even have to haul the anchor – just tie up, jump over the side and join the fish!

The Spanish Virgins are relatively undeveloped and have remote anchorages completely protected by coral reefs and mangroves; quite lonely spots in which you can be the only yacht - such a contrast with the British Virgins.

After passing through “the Virgins” and enjoying much gentle downwind trade wind sailing, Puerto Rico was our last stop heading west. Having visited San Juan, the capital, in Penmar last time around, our intention this time was to visit the mountainous interior and see more of this intriguing country. An Overseas Territory of the US, the culture is Latin American, but commercial life is organised along American lines.

Highlights for us were the city of Ponce, on the south coast, with its fine colonial buildings and El Yunque National Forest, which is a magnificent example of what can be achieved in preserving and replanting a tropical rain forest. Fortunately, we escaped the 200 inches of annual rainfall on our visit!

So, now we’re heading back east through the Virgin Islands (against some very strong, squally winds too!) and enjoying our favourite spots again, before the long haul home via The Azores.

We’ve really enjoyed our time out here amongst the islands and have always been met with friendly smiles and good humour. Also, thus far we’ve not experienced or felt any of the security issues which prevail in some of the islands.

It’s difficult to imagine leaving this wonderful weather, the golden beaches and clear waters for the 8.15 train to Kings Cross…….

Spirit of Penmar - Geoff & Niki Philips